Bahia Honda, Cuba

March 10, 2017

0800 we clear immigration and receive our zarpe(exit permit) , leaving Havana to our next port, Bahia Honda. Winds 8-10 kts ESE increasing to 15 kts by early afternoon with seas 4-5 ft, what a pleasure our first easy day sail in a long time.
1500 we reach a well marked channel leading into Bahia Honda, and proceeded to a small cove that offers us protection from all directions. Ensenada Ste. Teresa is a hurricane hole and a peaceful and beautiful anchorage. It is a pity you cannot go on shore here.  Anchored in 15 ft about 200 yards from shore, there are several fronts bringing bad weather so this is a good place to be.

 The shore is lined with mangroves  You will see wooden stake fences along the shore; these are shellfish farms. Here fishermen harvest the ostion, a delicious shellfish similar to oysters which grow attached to strings hanging from the fences into the water. This place is very peaceful and quiet with a great view of the mountains and small villages in the distance.

Not long after we set anchor we are approached by a snorkel pushing a young boy seated on a piece of styrofoam  holding a basket, they were offering us lobsters. They were not interested in money, just wanted to trade, so for a t-shirt a ball cap and crayons for the boy we got 10 lobsters. This continued almost on a daily basis, trading tooth brushes, shampoo, candies etc. (lobster is great for breakfast ).

Humberto

The next day a small row boat approached us, it was Humberto, the auxiliary Guardia Frontera. He is the elder, watchman, of a small village of 10 fishing families not a half mile from us. He was very pleasant and friendly and said he would notify Guardia Frontera of our arrival.
On the third day Humberto arrives in his row boat with the Guardia Frontera.Three of them , the captain, a very young Black man sporting a .45 cal and in full uniform, accompanied by two younger men. They all greeted Kathy with a hug and a kiss, she offered them a drink and they accepted. After many rums they looked at my papers and said all was fine, and bid us farewell, but as the Captain is boarding the small boat he ends up in the water hanging from the edge of our boat (not that the drinks had anything to do with this) , a Kodak moment for sure, but inappropriate to take a photo at this time. The Captain came back onboard and had another drink before leaving, instructing Humberto that he was to check on us every day and make sure we had what we needed.
And so he did, Humberto would come by every morning and evening to check on us. He would bring potatoes, yuca, tomatoes, fish, lobsters... he even went to the store for us to get rum and refused to take our money.

These two couples and the little girl circled the boat taking pictures, we signaled them to come along side and offered the girl a candy bar.

They tied up alongside and offered us rum and a local wine, they are both fisherman from the other side of the bay out for a weekend ride to the beach, had a lovely visit with them. They invited us to a fish fry but unfortunately we are not allowed to disembark here, nor are the Cubans allowed on any foreign vessel. After a good time had by all they left only to return several hours later with a large platter of fried fish and another of plantains... Laws be damned, we lowered our Jacobs ladder and invited them onboard, and proceeded to have a great time eating, singing, dancing and a few Cuba Libres. The girl had the time of her life, watched movies and helped Kathy in the galley, she was sweet and very well behaved.

The next day our friends return with five bags of spices, cilantro, tomatoes, peppers, hot peppers, potatoes, yam...Kathy had mentioned she needed a couple of things and they materialized. Along with all the goodies the father brings me a picture of his daughter and a drawing she made for us. These are priceless moments.

After almost two weeks in Bahia Honda it was time to move on, we bid our good byes with sadness in our hearts to have to leave such wonderful people who had become as family. Though we could not touch ground, we were never alone, always some one there to share a moment with, and never a dull moment. The night before we left Humberto came by with his sister to bid us good byes, they brought us home made tomato sauce, mango jam, yuca, potatoes, mangos, tomatoes, pepers... They gave us their address and phone numbers and invited us to come stay with them any time. Humberto did say we have the record for the longest stay in Bahia Honda and he would be sad to come out and not see our boat there. These are simple, wonderful people with a big heart, we will sure miss them.